The combinations listed in each category are not all we have done, nor are they all out power combinations. These buildups are for the guys who have been wanting to see actual write ups of actual builds, combinations, parts used and power produced. We will also have pictures where we can, as well as vehicle information and how much power each one has made. Much better than the inflated numbers you get from sponsored magazine articles.The power these engines have made are very conservative on the dyno, and have proven to run in the car like the dyno is off by 20-30 numbers, the complete opposite of what happens from most of these "advertised horsepower" engines. I see too many guys worried about the magic peak number a dyno gives you, kind of like a flow bench. We feel the entire curve is the most important, especially when the whole combination plays a role in how the car performs on the track. We have witnessed first hand what alot of builders do at magazine shoots on the dyno to make it "look good".Then the engine goes in the car and doesn't run.We do not feel this benefits you in anyway.None of the information we provide here is inflated as they are not advertisements, however for those of you interested in any of these combinations, we can duplicate them and/or add improvements to them for even more power at your request.

 

Misc.

 

**When looking at and comparing combinations, it is important to see what parts are used throughout the entire car, since gear,weight, tire, converter all play a role in getting the power down. Just because an engine makes good power, doesn't mean it will run to its full potential without the help of the rest of the combination. Too many so called builders out there are too quick to assume that a builder automatically gives you 1,000hp in everything they build regardless of cubic inch or application. This is not the case. Peak dyno numbers mean nothing. When you can build a combination to fit the customers requests, that will mean alot more to them when their car is flying by the one with so called big "peak" numbers that the same "builders" think you should have..Combination is everything!



Below is a brief description of just some of the styles and combinations we build.

 

**Street: We consider our street engines to be very powerful on the street, yet completely reliable using 93 octane fuel. They are mostly maintenance free, using flat tappet or hydraulic roller camshafts, have compression up to 10.1, and do not require big dollar ported heads and rotating assemblies. They are built for guys who want low maintenance, power, and reliability. Power from each combination in this category will depend on the cubic inch chosen. With our street engines, you will get the most for your money guarenteed!

**Hot Street: These engines are a step up from our basic street engines, meaning they push the limits of power while still running on 93 octane fuel. Compression is higher, the use of a solid roller camshaft is mandatory, and a dominator can be used when applicable, depending on cubic inch. We pride ourselves in making the most power we can without sacrificing any reliability in these engines. Reliability is key when producing power on 93 octane as many builders can get out of hand with camshaft choice, compression, etc...which can lead to engine failure. We don't need job security, yet would rather have a customer who can make killer power, with longevity in mind.

**Maximum Effort Street: These types of engines are no holds barred on 93 octane! Basically a race engine in disguise. It utilizes the same types of parts as in all of our race engines, but compression is kept to a point that can be ran on 93 octane. This is for the guys who want the utmost power on pump fuel!

**Bracket: Our Bracket type engines are basically race gas engines, however they are not all out race engine power. They are used for guys that want the power, without the heavy maintenance of an all out exotic race engine, or heavy price tags that come with heavily ported cylinder heads, intakes, etc.. These are the engines that can go rounds and be very reliable and consistent.

**Race: These engines are exactly what the name implies. These versions are similar to the bracket style engines, only they make more power. Where the bracket style engines may use your basic high compression, std. cylinder head, etc...the Race version goes one step further. We up the power using heavily modified cylinder heads, more compression, more aggressive camshafts and power adders.

**Maximum Effort Race: These are the big dogs.These engines come in any make or size, and utilize heavily modified, altered valve angle cylinder heads, dual carburetors (where applicable), custom sheetmetal intakes, very high compression ratios,very aggressice cam cores, etc...and are designed to make the most horsepower for a given cubic inch Normally Aspirated! Proper attention to design and detail ensures a vergy good power curve without any power adders. It is easy to rely on boost or hitting a button, but making these kind of power levels requires alot of thought, attention to detail and carefully designed parts. These are the engines you will need to be fast and competitive in todays world of racing!

**Power Adder: These engines are just that. Engines built to withstand the minimum to maximum amount of power that these engines can make using different styles of power adders. Each engine is built according to the level of power you are looking to achieve. They don't neccessarily make the most power without the adder of choice, but are specifically designed to make it once you hit the button or under full boost! Each type of engine above can be had with a power adder in mind. Be sure to be specific when calling.

*Any of these types of combinations can use power adders such as Nitrous Oxide, however those listed as "Nitrous Only" will be labeled as such. Nitrous only engines are engines built specifically for power to be made on Nitrous. Every Nitrous engine will be tuned to make the most power Normally Aspirated before the button is hit. Although it is not a Normally Aspirated combination, we feel it is just as important to make sure the engine is making full power without the nitrous in order to make the full gains when the nitrous is used. There is no sense in hitting the button without knowing what the engine can do without it, even if it is a Nitrous Only combination.

Those of you interested in any of these combinations, or a custom built combination for your car and wants to use power adders such as nitrous, blowers, turbos, etc..please be sure to be specific when calling as to which power adder you want to run as parts chosen will need to be used to handle the added stress these power adders put on parts.

 


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